Drafting a Sloper or Pattern Block Part 3: Pants

So now that I have a skirt sloper, I need a perfect pant sloper. I am notoriously picky about my pants. If they fit in the waist they don’t fit my hips. If they fit my thighs they are too big in the waist. It’s just frustrating. Previously I custom fitted McCall’s 5941 to my shape and have a great go to pants pattern but I’d like a little variety.  So I wanted a standard pant to draft variations from.  I already have an idea of the first pattern to draft from these!

sewinghow to pantSo the first sample is from Sewing.Wonderhowto.com. These look pretty good but the first thing I noticed was that it didn’t account for thigh circumference and since that is one of my problem areas, I kind of wish it did. This tutorial was easy to follow and looks close to pants patterns I have used in the past. Also the darts aren’t very deep so I am not sure how it will fit around the rear. We will see!

burda cut pantThe next is from Burdastyle.com. This one has two back darts so I think it will fit the rear better. This one went together fairly easily, even when I had to go back and correct my measurement errors. This one didn’t account for thigh circumference either but it looks the closest to my current favorite pants pattern. It has nice straight from the knee legs that you could easily adjust to hang from the hip. The back has a curved hem which is different than any other pant I have done but it will probably make the pant hang better in the back. You have to excuse the typos in the tutorial, they call the crotch a “crutch” and a few other misspellings because I think the original designer may not have been a native English speaker.

pant cotoureThe last trial is InthemoodforCouture.com. It looks the most complicated of the three, with various fitting adjustments for different body types. With complications probably comes better fit. This one was a little more difficult to complete. It did not automatically put in the darts and I left them off to be added when fitting. It does not seem to take into account the curviness of the butt, hip, and waist but we will see when we get to the muslins.

Now for the muslin test!