Classic Jacket Style

One of my favorite things to make are jackets. I love jackets and I love layered looks, plus I always get cold in offices with air conditioning. I need an outer layer. My favorite jackets are fitted and classic in styling. I am not a big fan of the boxy fit seen more today. I tend to stick with a pattern that works for me because once I have done all that altering and fitting work you can’t make just one!

My go to jacket pattern is the Simplicity 4954.  I see it is sadly out of print.  You might still be able to find it on ebay.  I love it for the variations you can make. It is also relatively easy because it has no lapels, which makes it easy to alter and design. The first one I made was probably 8 years ago out of this neat brown boucle (on the right).  It had too much stretch so I interfaced the whole thing.  I still get compliments on it.

 4954                                                  brown jacket

Next I made a spring jacket with new details like zippers in the sleeves and a bracelet clasp as the closure.

spring jacketspring jeacket sleeve detail                                                                       Springs jacket clasp detail

Next I started experimenting with peplums thanks to my Threads magazine. I wanted a gathered peplum so not only did I have to spread the hem to get the width I needed I also had to spread the patter at the back and at the front so I could gather in those two places. It came out pretty good in a light weight tropical wool from Vogue Fashion Fabrics (more on them later).

peplum jacket                                                            peplum jacket back

Then I got it into my head I wanted a traditional Chanel style jacket. So I bought Claire Schaffer’s guide book and followed it. I didn’t go all the way and do all the details but I did a lot and it was great. Too bad that was before I was blogging.   Her pattern is a Vogue Pattern 8804.

chanel jacket                        chanel jacket 2

I was browsing through the websites to see what else was out there and I didn’t find much in a classic princess seam style like I have so I’ll be hanging on to that one. There were a few nice ones on Vogue, 9093 and 8982. I might have to try the more modern unlined one!

V8804                                                        V8982

Details for Inspiration

So I am an idea stealer. I admit it. I read magazines, look in couture shops, drool over pinterest, and surf the web to look for inspiration for sewing. I rarely find something I just love and it’s perfect. It usually has great detail but wrong color. Good color but wrong size. You get what I mean. So if I can get away with it I take pictures of the items that I find and note what I like so I may borrow it someday. Since about 10 years BP (Before Pinterest) I had binders and folders full of clippings and pictures. You remember those scrapbooks? Now I have folders of photos on my computer, phone, and pinterest just for inspiration. Often I just find a pattern to die for but can’t find the right fabric so I must wait.

So I was in store last spring and saw this cute dress and Chanel style jacket with great detail so I snapped a few pictures. Now I don’t wear pink and haven’t found the perfect fabric for this yet but I patiently wait. I’ll know it when I see it.

1 detail inspiration


detail inspiration (2)detail inspiration 3

Here’s the dress with the waist and hem detail.

This would look great in a loose tweed or boucle.   Any one tried this detail yet?